Personal Experience: I Climbed America's Tallest Mountain Without Climbing Experience

An experienced hiker has climbed Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in South America, and shown that reaching the summit is truly achievable even for hikers without technical mountaineering experience, reports Travel Leisure.

Photo: iStock.com/Paulo Ricardo Fagundes

To the uninitiated, the world of rock climbing can seem intimidating and dangerous. But you don't have to be on the level of Free Solo's Alex Honnold to safely push your limits in the highest places on the planet. Many mountains around the world are accessible to novice climbers, people who have nothing more than strong legs, healthy lungs and some determination.

And America's tallest mountain, Aconcagua, falls into this category. This 6-meter Argentine monster is the highest point of the vast Andes range, nearly 961 meters higher than any mountain in the continental United States.

In fact, Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the world outside of Asia. It may seem daunting, but unlike many other mountains of similar height, in good conditions the standard Aconcagua route is little more than a hike.

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Climbers have to carry heavy loads up steep slopes, but there is usually no need for ropes, special shoes, ice axes, or other “climbing gizmos.” There are no sections that require technical climbing.

“If you're an avid hiker with camping experience, Aconcagua represents an achievable goal—and perhaps the highest point on the planet that can be climbed without technical mountaineering skills,” says Owen Clarke, a freelance journalist with more than a decade of experience in the in the field of adventure travel and outdoor recreation.

Preparing for the climb

In January, Clark and his father spent a couple of weeks on the mountain with his friend Damian Benegas of Benegas Brothers Expeditions. Damian and his twin brother Willy are legendary Argentine guides and former professional mountaineers.

Together they conquered Everest 20 times, Aconcagua more than 100, not to mention dozens of other peaks on all seven continents. Damian and Willie began climbing in the late 1980s and were among the pioneers of commercial summiting. Willie set the world record for the fastest ascent and descent of the mountain in 2000, racing from the trailhead to the summit and back in 23 hours and 30 minutes.

Today, they offer personalized, small-scale expeditions—unlike other large-scale tour companies on the mountain.

Clark and his father flew to the cozy mountain town of Mendoza, replete with world-famous wineries, gourmet restaurants and spa centers, where they spent several days preparing equipment for the trip.

From Mendoza, they drove three hours west to Las Cuevas, a small mountain community near Aconcagua National Park, on the border with Chile. Las Cuevas, located at an altitude of 3 m, is the ideal place to acclimatize before attempting to conquer Aconcagua. For several days, father and son hiked up and down the surrounding peaks to get used to the thin mountain air and harsh Alpine sun.

After adjusting to the high ground, they met up with the muleteers near the park and sent most of their equipment ahead on pack mules.

Damian and his team were filming a documentary, so they had hundreds of kilos of equipment.

“Once we entered Aconcagua National Park, it took us two days. We covered 28 km of hiking to get to base camp,” says Clark. — Our group traveled along the bed of the dry Horcones River. Mountains rose all around. At one point we crossed a small cable-stayed bridge that was used during the filming of the film Seven Years in Tibet. As we went deeper into the valley, the mountains on both sides grew higher and the trail began to wind up cliffs and rocky gorges.”

They eventually reached the Plaza de Mulas (base camp) at 4 m.

Gradual ascent

In this high alpine valley, at the foot of America's highest peak, there is a tent city with cafes and bars. There is even the highest art gallery in the world.

Clark and his father spent several days in a tent city preparing for the climb.

“The food was delicious, varied and extensive, and there was enough food to keep me full every night. We enjoyed quinoa stew, sumptuous steaks, sausages and grilled vegetables. Of course, there was plenty of fresh juice, beer and wine every morning, as well as hot coffee and tea,” Clark recalls. “After a few days of gluttony at base camp, it was time to start the real climb.”

Some groups spend only four or five days on the mountain, moving from base camp to camps I, II, III and the summit. Experienced climbers can even make it to the top and back in a matter of hours. In January 2022, American ultrarunner Tyler Andrews reached the summit in just seven hours and 35 minutes, a new record.

Clark and his father spent 10 days climbing and descending the mountain from base camp - doing what climbers call a "spin."

“First we went up to Camp I and came back, then we went up to Camp I, spent the night there, went up to Camp II, slept and returned to base. After a couple of days of rest, we headed to the summit, stopping overnight at Camps II and III,” Clark details.

This reciprocating system may seem unnecessary, but Clark says it greatly aids in acclimatization, gives your body time to adapt to lower oxygen concentrations and prevents acute mountain sickness (AMS).

Many climbers on Aconcagua climb too quickly and suffer from illness, which can cause headaches, nausea, vomiting and, worse, delay or ruin your chances of climbing.

“Our group of six did not have any problems due to the long acclimatization period. Plus, every camp was worth staying at. The unique view of the vast number of peaks and valleys stretching below this high peak was breathtaking. With majestic sunsets, the sky turns into a warm haze of molten glass flowing down the surrounding peaks. Without a doubt, these were the best sunsets I have ever seen,” Clark admitted.

“On the day of the climb, we woke up at 4 am and started climbing at 5:30. We were in no hurry: we climbed the mountain, climbing steep snowy slopes and moving along narrow ridges. The virgin sunrise filled everything with an orange pre-dawn glow,” the journalist shares his impressions.

Damian and his team stopped at several sites to film and fly their camera drones, so the team took longer. They arrived at the summit late in the evening.

On the top

Clark says clouds at the summit obscured the view. They wore special boots most of the day because there was an unusual amount of snow on the mountain.

“But the entire trip, from the trailhead to the summit, was nothing more than a long, steep and stunningly beautiful hike at high altitude. It was far from easy, that's for sure, but it was quite achievable without the slightest experience of rock or ice climbing,” assures Clark.

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The best time to climb the mountain is during the peak of the Argentine summer, from December to February. These months typically have the warmest and driest conditions. However, the full climbing season runs from November to mid-March. Climbing early or late in the season may be more financially advantageous. Plus the lack of crowds. But then weather conditions become more unpredictable.

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