Discovered the secret of happiness: how Ukrainians live in Argentina

Photos from personal archive

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Argentina is one of the most interesting countries in Latin America: the birthplace of tango, Borges and Evita Peron; emigrant pot, in which many cultures melted; a country of dictators and defaults (including the biggest default in 2001 year).

"Observer" talked with Olga Samsonova from Kiev, who moved to Argentina for the sake of tango, but stayed - because it seems to her that the Argentines discovered the secret of happiness. ForumDaily publishes the text with the permission of the publisher.

In Kiev, for several years I was quite seriously engaged in tango. For all the tangeros, the most cherished dream is to dance in a milongah (tango party - Auth.) In Buenos Aires. In addition, I have long wanted to live abroad. I was lucky with the profession, I am an English teacher, I studied in Britain, so I can earn in almost any country in the world.

As a result, the choice fell on Argentina. I was going to live there for a few months, dance my heart out, raise my tango level and return to Ukraine. I really returned, but only on the last New Year holidays, and once again - to visit the family. I live in Latin America for a year and a half. I like literally everything.

Move

Holiday of the Ukrainian community in Buenos Aires

Ukrainians do not need a visa to Argentina, so I just bought tickets and flew. In Buenos Aires, there was a friend of mine, an Englishman - a former college classmate in New Castle, where I received my diploma. He met me, helped me navigate at first, we first rented an apartment together.

After 90 days of stay in Argentina, the Ukrainians are supposed to either fly away or somehow get legalized. I did not do this, like many other people, and I live in an illegal situation. But it threatens only with a small fine on leaving the country (around UAH 1000), no other sanctions are provided.

A fairly common way to obtain a residence permit is to go to university (free public higher education is well developed here), get married or even just cohabitate (what we call a “civil marriage”) with an Argentinean.

View of the river Rio de la Plata in Buenos Aires

Accomodation

In Argentina, it is customary to rent an apartment for several people, perhaps because people do not value personal space as much as we do.

For a foreigner, this is generally the preferred option, and here's why: in order to rent an apartment entirely, you need to give the owners a guarantee from an Argentine citizen who is ready to vouch for you with his own real estate. Not every Argentinian will find such a guarantor, and even more so a foreigner.

Renting a whole apartment in a good area costs around 10 000 pesos ($ 575), a room in a distant area from the center is around 2 500 ($ 145).

Work

English lesson in one of Kiev language schools where Olga taught

Within a few weeks after my arrival, I found a place in the English language school, but I was paid a little, I only needed to rent it. The rest was paid from their savings. A few months later I left there and since then I give private lessons, earning 3-4 more times than at school.

I quickly learned Spanish and now it is even easier for me to find students. Approximately 15 of my wards learn English, another 3-4 person - Russian. Three categories of people are interested in Russians: Argentines married to women from the former Soviet Union; pensioners for whom learning a new language is a hobby; and finally, football fans planning a trip to Russia for the World Cup-2018.

In addition to being a good teacher, I am also appreciated here for European origin. Any European in Buenos Aires has a special love. Portenos (as the indigenous people of Buenos Aires call themselves) are proud that their ancestors arrived in Argentina from Europe in due time. And although I come from Ukraine, and not, say, from France, for the locals I am quite exotic. The exact opposite attitude here towards Bolivians and Paraguayans, they are despised, this is such a local kind of racism. And they do not like Chileans because they were on the side of Great Britain in the war for the Falkland Islands.

Tango

From personal archive

Tango in Argentina, not all dance as it may seem. This is still quite a complicated dance. Gathering at family or friendly parties, Argentines, rather, dance adapted to the modern style of Cumbia - Colombian folk dance, something like salsa.

However, there are a lot of tangeros here. 10-20 milongas are held daily in Buenos Aires. For comparison, in Kiev there are three or four a week. There is no upper bound for the age of the dancers here - old and old women come to dance for 80. Their technical level leaves much to be desired, they dance just for fun, hug, laugh. It's nice to look at, but I naturally prefer the milongas, where younger and more advanced people gather. There are also a lot of people here, and unlike in Ukraine, there is never a shortage of partners: the demographic balance is perfect, even sometimes there are not enough partners, and no one sits in the corner all evening.

Another difference from Kiev milongas is that people come in casual clothes, not dressing up specifically (as is customary in Kiev).

In addition to tango, in Buenos Aires there are many opportunities to engage in creativity, from ballet to ceramics. Almost every porteno has some interesting hobby.

Christmas in Buenos Aires

Mentality

One of the reasons why I stay here - the Argentines discovered the secret of happiness. More relaxed and cheerful people I have not met.

On the one hand, this is a definite plus, on the other hand, due to relaxation, they are very non-punctual, they endure meetings, break promises. This is almost the norm. If one Argentine is late for a meeting for half an hour or even an hour, the other will wave his hand - yes, nothing, in the meantime, I drank coffee, rested.

They always make fun of my punctuality here. For example, we are sitting in a cafe with friends, and someone says: “It’s time to go out, otherwise we’ll be late.” I get up and get dressed. Everyone looks in bewilderment: “No, Olga, this is not the Ukrainian “it’s time,” it’s the Argentine “it’s time,” that is, we sit for another ten minutes and finish our coffee.” Or, for example, you leave your apartment on business, and on the next porch your neighbor is drinking mate. Naturally, you also sit down to drink mate, and let the whole world wait.

Argentines explain this peculiarity of their character by the fact that life is too unstable, the currency rate jumps, then revolution, then default, so you have to enjoy today. If the party was delayed for the whole night, then the guests would remain dancing until five in the morning, then they would be late for work, they would nod off. If possible, come to work later or sleep during a siesta.

Winter in Buenos Aires

Here it is always late to go to bed, to come to visit at midnight - this is normal, as well as throwing a party until the morning with loud music. Neighbors will not complain, will suffer, because the next time they can arrange the same party.

The rule “to be patient with the inconvenience and weaknesses of others” applies to all areas of life. For example, children are never reprimanded; they can make noise, run around, and no one will shout or frown. Little ones are given a lot of attention and love, constantly kissed, hugged, and admired.

Street fashion in buenos aires

Women are treated in a European way, with respect; women are independent, independent, no one pesters you with the question: “You’re already 30, why haven’t you given birth yet?” But this is in Buenos Aires. Machismo, rudely patronizing, patriarchal attitudes are widespread in the provinces.

Another feature of the mentality that I had to get used to is the constant violation of physical boundaries. When meeting, it is customary to hug and kiss even with strangers, but with friends it is a sacred thing. Each “hello-bye” is accompanied by a hug.

The greeting will definitely contain the question, that is, you say not just “hello”, but “hello, how are you?” But in fact, this is a pure formality, so you need to answer: “Okay, what about you?” They laugh at the Slavs, who in response begin to complain about life.

Of course, close friends can be answered honestly if things are bad. Argentines are friendly, generous, ready to help.

Standard of living

A year ago, after a technical default, the neoliberal president Makri was elected, half of which is pleased, because he is a supporter of a market economy. Previously, the economy was tightly controlled by the state, there were many subsidies, etc.

Election campaigning in Argentinean style: the priest calls to “vote for anyone, but with joy!”

The other half are dissatisfied with the abolition of subsidies, raising tariffs for utilities and transport, reducing public health and education funding.

Corruption is widespread, but not as strong as ours. At least, no one gives bribes to teachers and doctors.

Medical service

I only know about the situation in medicine in general terms. Officially working people have medical insurance, and people like me have an alternative: pay for private visits to a doctor (consultation - from 650 to 1000 peso ($ 35-55)) or go to public emergency clinics. They do not deny anyone there, serving them affably and at a good level, but they have to sit through a long line.

Transport

Buenos Aires has more metro lines than Kiev, and a well-developed network of bus routes. Riding in the subway or bus costs 6 pesos.

In addition, a lot of taxis. It is not customary to call by phone - you just go out into the street, and in a minute or two the car will appear. They are all the same color, with a license, that is, you can safely sit down, although it is more expensive, of course, than public transport.

Buenos Aires business district

A lot of people ride motorcycles. Personal cars here, in fact, are necessary only for those who live in the province and travel to Buenos Aires every morning. Liter of gasoline - 16-17 pesos.

Food

It is accepted to eat four times: breakfast, lunch, merinda (something like an afternoon snack) and late dinner.

For breakfast, usually coffee and something sweet: croissants, condensed milk, toast with jam. Our continental breakfast (oatmeal, eggs) is lunch for them.

From personal archive

Merida is also a coffee with a croissant. And for dinner, most often served a hefty piece of meat with vegetables. At first it was terribly uncomfortable to fill the stomach at night, but I was already rebuilt, used to. Resigned to the lack of buckwheat and kefir, which are simply not there.

Argentina is a meat country, famous for its beef and its cooking culture. The meat here is really very good and tasty. There is a tradition of barbecue, which is called “asado” here (this is both the product itself and the parties). Men usually cook. Guests gather, grill meat, and leisurely gorge themselves all day long.

At first, the general slowness infuriates me, but after a year and a half I got used to it, I also learned to relax and drink mate “in any unclear situation.” In Argentina it is quite easy to be happy, despite any defaults and revolutions.

All photos from the personal archive of Olga Samsonova.

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