An American in the USSR kept a diary about the country, and the KGB wrote down his every step: now the texts can be compared

Teddy Row's notes are a unique historical document that allows you to see the Soviet Union through the eyes of an American. These are hundreds of pages of typescript that have never been published before, writes Present Tense.

Photo: Shutterstock

In April 1968, an American tourist Teddy Row flew to Moscow from Washington. Observation of him was established immediately upon arrival: the KGB knew that the tourist was working as an assistant to an influential American senator, and did not exclude that his visit was connected with espionage in favor of the United States. Row spent three months in the USSR - during this time he traveled the country from west to east, recording in detail in his diary everything he saw and heard. The fact that the tourist kept a diary was known only to KGB officers - for a long time they remained practically his only readers.

Having stumbled upon the mention of the trip and the diary in the KGB official reports, the historian and journalist Eduard Andryushchenko was able to track down Teddy Row in the USA, transmit these reports to him, write down his story about the trip to the USSR, and first publish excerpts from his notes.

Thread in a suitcase

It was Friday, April 26, 1968. After a morning tour of Minsk, Teddy Rowe returned to the hotel for lunch. Having briefly entered his room, the tourist, out of habit, cast a glance at the suitcase. It took just a few seconds to understand: in his absence, someone other than a cleaning lady had been here. And that someone was opening his suitcase.

This is not to say that what happened was a surprise for the 34-year-old American. Quite the contrary - even before the start of his three-month tour of the Soviet Union, Teddy knew that they would look after him. In the end, he is not quite an ordinary tourist.

Over the two weeks of his journey, Rowe had already noticed his surveillance. Therefore, leaving the room, he began to resort to a simple method: he left a couple of threads on the suitcase and inside, remembering how they lay. Today, the position of the threads has changed for the first time.

If uninvited guests work for the Soviet authorities (for example, the KGB), Teddy reasoned, of his things the most interesting for them would be a notebook with travel notes. Most of the trip was ahead, and the American guest realized that this was not the last attempt to examine the contents of his suitcase. Therefore, Rowe took a pen and, being sure that the notebook would be opened, he wrote a message directly to it to possible readers.

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“My suitcase was opened. If the authorities want to see what I wear or what I wrote, I will gladly open my things myself and show them.”

In his address, Teddy added that he - a guest and a tourist - does not do anything forbidden in the USSR, does not demonize the country, like some of his countrymen, and demands that his rights and respect for private property be respected.

“I am aware of every case where my suitcase has been opened and that this message will be read,” Rowe concluded. “If this happens again, I intend to strongly protest against such behavior.”

Teddy Rowe was not mistaken in his suspicions.

"Propaganda of the American Way of Life"

“In April-May of this [1968] year, the Soviet Union, including a number of cities in Ukraine, was visited as an American tourist by an employee of the office of the leader of the Democratic Party faction in the US Senate Mansfield - Row Teddy, born in 1934, suspected of involvement in American intelligence.

The official purpose of the American’s trip to the USSR, according to him, is to consolidate knowledge of the Russian language, study Soviet reality by communicating with people and comparing their opinions, and choosing the most interesting places in our country for subsequent visits.”

This is a fragment of a message from the chairman of the KGB of the Ukrainian SSR Vitaliy Nikitchenko, addressed to the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Republic in June of that year (that is, two months after the incident in the Teddy Row hotel in Minsk). As noted in the document, Roe was personally reported. First Secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Ukraine Peter Shelest. Similar notes about the American were probably sent to the leaders of other republics - and maybe to the All-Union. The document found in the declassified archive of the Security Service of Ukraine, and laid the foundation for work on this article.

The American Teddy Rowe arrived in the USSR on April 11, 1968. He really worked as an assistant to the US senator. Moreover, Mike Mansfield was one of the most influential American politicians. He stayed the leader of the Senate majority for 16 years - a record in the history of the country. In 1964, the portrait of a politician hit the cover of Time magazine.

“...The US Democratic Party, after the presidential election, expects to appoint Senator Mansfield to the post of Secretary of State, and therefore Roe is of particular interest for its subsequent study,” the KGB reported in another message to the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Ukraine a month later, in July.

Senator Mansfield did not succeed in becoming Secretary of State: the Democratic Party lost the presidential election of 1968 - and Republican Richard Nixon became the head of state.

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One way or another, the interest of the USSR KGB in the figure of the 34-year-old tourist is quite understandable, so it is not surprising that they began to “lead” him immediately upon his arrival in Moscow on April 11.

In their documents, KGB officers noted that Rowe knew Russian well (so well that, according to reports, the American was periodically mistaken for a Czech or a resident of one of the Baltic countries). The attention of special services was also attracted by the fact that the American was going to stay in the USSR for three whole months, and planned to return in the future.

In the same documents, government officials report: “Rowe’s detailed diary entries, in which he critically assessed certain aspects of the life and activities of Soviet society, were secretly re-photographed.” This KGB message is accompanied by extensive quotes translated into Russian from the tourist’s diary. These are 27 typewritten pages, about a month on the road (a third of the entire trip) along the route Moscow - Leningrad - Tallinn - Riga - Vilnius - Minsk - Kiev - Kharkov - Zaporozhye - Yalta. The security officers chose for the party leadership only those fragments that in some way related to politics or contained assessments of Soviet realities.

In addition, the KGB noted the “long, detailed conversations” that Rowe had with Soviet citizens - according to the authorities, the American not only got to know local residents, but also tried to “promote the American way of life” in these conversations.

Secretly copying documents and records of a possible intelligence officer is a common practice of intelligence services. As a rule, to do this, operatives entered the target’s hotel room or apartment. Teddy Rowe noticed the consequences of one of these visits in Minsk. The KGB reports say nothing about the message that the American left after this; only one quote from the diary mentions the “suitcase incident” in passing and without explanation.

Through the iron curtain

The opportunity to visit the USSR Teddy Row received thanks to a grant from American NGOs, who offered him two three-month trips abroad. The choice of the country was due to the fact that, already working in Congress, the young man received a master's degree in Russian studies at Georgetown University in Washington. The sponsors did not set any special tasks for him; a report on the results of the trip was not required. It was assumed that months abroad would help a young Congressional employee to better understand what is happening in the world and improve their skills.

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Row did not have confidence that he would be allowed into the country and allowed to visit everything he wanted: the Soviet government considered almost every visitor from the country as a potential threat, the visits of foreigners were clearly regulated. However, the trip was approved.

Perhaps the decision was due to the fact that (as KGB reports say) Roe was of interest to the Soviet intelligence services. Teddy himself says that the USSR in those years was in dire need of currency, so it opened its doors wide to foreign tourists. Indeed, according to official data, which are given in the book “Through the Iron Curtain” about the trips of foreigners to the Soviet Union, from 1960 to 1980 the number of foreign tourists increased 7 times (from 700 thousand to 5 million people). Some regions of the USSR became accessible to foreigners for the first time in the 1960s.

The organizer of the trip on the Soviet side was Intourist, a state travel company that organized trips for foreigners around the country and accompanied them. Intourist provided the American with housing, transportation, guides and food stamps in its restaurants. Teddy traveled between cities by plane, train and even ship (along the Volga). He was able to visit thirty cities of all fifteen republics of the Soviet Union. After the western regions of the country, his route ran through Moldova, the Volga region, the Don, the South Caucasus, Central Asia, Siberia (the tourist traveled along the Trans-Siberian Railway) and ended in the Far East.

How much the whole trip cost, he no longer remembers, but very expensive. The exchange of dollars for rubles at the official, extremely unprofitable rate hit the American wallet.

In his diary, he writes ironically: “The administrator <...> asked why I didn’t take my wife with me. I replied that if the Soviet government exchanged dollars for rubles at their actual value, I could bring my wife and I would still have money left!”

Meeting in billings

Other documents about the trip of Teddy Row, except for two messages and part of the diary as an application, could not be found in the SBU archive. Present time has sent requests to the archives of the FSB and the Baltic countries, but has not received any answers; a representative of the State Archive of Latvia said that most of the KGB archive of the Latvian SSR was taken to Moscow in the late 1980s, and no mention of Teddy Row could be found in the remaining documents available under quarantine.

But the present time managed to find Teddy Rowe and contact him - the former assistant to Senator Mike Mansfield lives in Montana, now he is 85 years old.

An American historian, Sean Gillory, a researcher at the Center for Russian and East European Studies at the University of Pittsburgh, helped contact Row. Interested in the story of an American foreign tourist in the USSR and impressed by the vast geography of Rowe's Soviet tour, as well as the attention with which he recorded everyday life in his diary, Gillory decided to document Teddy's memories and in January 2020 met with him in his house in the town of Billings, state Montana.

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“Rowe Teddy, born in 1934, suspected of involvement in American intelligence,” he finishes reading an excerpt from the report about himself. “I want to say right away that I have never been in any way connected with American intelligence.

According to Teddy Rowe, he still often remembers that trip. And when, at the end of 2019, I received an email with a story about documents found in Kyiv and a request for an interview, I was “in a slight shock.”

By first education, Teddy Rowe is a journalist. In his student years he trained in Argentina, after university he wrote for several years for local publications in the states of Montana and Iowa. In 1961, the young correspondent received a scholarship for an internship in Congress as an assistant to the senator. Including Rowe worked with Mike Mansfield - he persuaded the intern to quit journalism and stay to work with him.

"No illusions"

About the grant, as well as about work in Congress, Rowe did not tell anyone in the USSR. He was silent about the journalistic experience and the study of Russian studies. Otherwise, Teddy is sure, in every city he would be taken to official meetings and taken to places like exemplary factories. And in the status of a simple tourist, he was left to his own devices - as much as possible.

The fact that Teddy kept silent about some facts of his biography, of course, did not protect the KGB from attention - all the more so, as it follows from the documents of the special services, the authorities still knew about all or almost all of these facts.

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“When I went to the Soviet Union, I had no illusions,” Rowe said in an interview with Sean Guillory today. “I said to myself: “They will open my luggage, they will follow me on the streets, they will talk to people I accidentally talk to.” Although were these [conversations] accidental?

At the same time, Teddy had no serious fears for his fate, because nothing illegal was included in the traveler's plans. In conversations, he did not allow himself to be superfluous, and when photographing, he made sure that bridges, military, etc. did not fall into the frame. Teddy hoped that with some problems with the Soviet authorities, he would be helped by Mike Mansfield's reputation as an adversary of the Vietnam War.

The KGB, as a rule, received details about how Teddy Rowe spent his time in the USSR, as well as the content of his conversations with citizens, from agents and informants. Most often these were employees of Intourist, but KGB informants could be not only guides and hotel workers, but also people who, on the instructions of the curator, “accidentally” met the object of surveillance on the street.

The agents’ task was not only to listen, but also to voice the necessary things themselves: “Further work on <...> Row Teddy in other areas of our country was carried out in the direction of exerting an ideological influence on the tourist that was beneficial to us and creating in him a positive image of the Soviet Union,” - noted in one of the KGB documents.

Saying that some “random” meetings during his trip to the USSR could have been planned by the State Security Committee (documents confirm this hypothesis), Teddy cautiously expresses suspicions about the two acquaintances. The first was with a Leningrad engineer, a fellow traveler on the train from Moscow. The second was with a married couple of scientists from Kyiv who were sitting next to him in the opera house. In both cases, the new acquaintances were polite and friendly and invited the foreigner home. There is no direct evidence of their work for the security officers - Rowe proceeds rather from internal sensations.

The agent’s acquaintance with the object of development in the theater and especially in the train is a common KGB technique. The same tricks were used, for example, during the development of the heroine of another story told by the Present Time - Taisiya Jaspar.

Reading what the “office” reported about him, Teddy finds there the truth, half-truths, and pure inventions of agents or security officers.

He was especially surprised when he read about how he “tried to get a manuscript from one of the Soviet citizens to publish it in the USA under a pseudonym, while declaring that the same fate would not befall him.” Sinyavsky and others". Nothing even approximately similar, according to Rowe, actually happened.

To write about what he saw and heard in the USSR, Teddy Rowe continued until the very end of his journey. Since the diary was read against his will, the author omitted some acute moments and, after returning home, restored it from memory. The result was voluminous work - 448 typewritten pages. For decades, these notes have been in Rowe’s house; the idea of ​​publishing them has remained unrealized. For more than 50 years, only some of Teddy's acquaintances (including the author of this article) could read the recordings.

USSR through the eyes of an American

On the pages of his notes, Teddy appears as a thoughtful observer who understands Soviet life and distinguishes “showcase” from reality. Although critical of the regime, the American speaks warmly of most local residents. “Anti-communist, but not a dogmatist,” is how historian Sean Guillory described Teddy Rowe after a personal meeting, but it is also quite fair for that young tourist in 1968.

Those quotes that the KGB cites in its document were also found in the full version of the diary. With the permission of the author, selected passages of the recordings have been translated into Russian and published below. For the convenience of the reader, they are divided into several thematic blocks: where necessary, they are accompanied by comments by the author of the article.

Having learned where Teddy Rowe came from, almost all of his Soviet interlocutors immediately began to question or simply talk about two things: the Vietnam War and the situation of the black population in the USA - these were favorite subjects of anti-American propaganda in the USSR of those years. The tourist patiently explained his position: he opposes the participation of the American army in the Vietnam conflict and for ensuring full rights for African Americans. The third eternal theme is “total unemployment and poverty” in the United States. Over time, endless conversations about the same thing began to frankly tire the traveler. As well as stereotyped stories about what heights the Soviet government reached over the 50 years of its existence.

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“I said that I was from Washington, and asked not to start discussions about Vietnam, since I speak Russian poorly,” Teddy wrote about a conversation with a resident of one of the Soviet cities. “She repeated several times that it was time to stop killing innocent Vietnamese. She asked whether their territory was sufficient for the United States, and stated, in order to prove the good intentions of the Soviet Union: “We have a large enough territory, and therefore we do not fight anywhere.”

Rowe himself tried to delve into the intricacies of the structure of the Soviet system, was keenly interested in the attitude of people to domestic and foreign policy. The retelling of conversations given in the diaries allows us to make an unambiguous conclusion: the vast majority of people who met an American in the USSR are not interested in political issues and either do not really understand how the power in the country is arranged, or it pretends. Party members are affected to the same extent as non-partisans. Moreover, the majority of those who join the CPSU do this for the sake of a career.

Here is his record of a conversation with the Kharkov guide Leroy:

“Like everyone I met who is associated with the party (she is a Komsomol member), Lera insisted that the real authority in the Soviet Union is the Supreme Council. I asked her how many people were in the two chambers of the Supreme Council. She did not know. I asked how often they meet. She thought - once every two years. I told her they usually get together two or three times a year for 10 days or two weeks.”

Almost everyone Teddy spoke to assured of his loyalty to the authorities. Critical remarks from locals were heard only a few times over the entire three months. In Tbilisi, Rowe met a 30-year-old man named Konstantin, who decided to discuss the problems of the political structure of the USSR with the American. He named “nationalism in small republics” as the main problem.

Teddy’s most radical interlocutor turned out to be a certain 21-year-old student from Sochi - his name is not mentioned in the notes so as not to expose him to danger. The young man told the American about the protests in Tbilisi in 1956 and Novocherkassk in 1962, expressed support for Sinyavsky and Daniel, and even admitted involvement in a certain “student underground” - "sub-parties" , which intends to fight for the rights and freedoms of Soviet citizens and is even preparing an uprising. Since the initiator of the conversation, according to Row's memoirs, was the student himself, it is possible that the young man worked for the KGB.

At the same time, many interlocutors told Rowe that they were listening to the Voice of America. One of them, a guy of about 18, admitted that he did not speak English, but every night he listened to “beat music” on the “enemy radio.” “He did a great job of imitating [the voice of] the Voice of America announcer who hosts the program, so he was really listening,” Teddy noted.

Guide Lera from Kharkov said that she had not read Pasternak’s novel “Doctor Zhivago,” but in full accordance with the formula “I have not read it, but I condemn it,” she added that after what she had heard about the book, the work “did not seem objective to her.” At the same time, she named Konstantin Paustovsky, Ilya Erenburg and the “young and very talented” as examples of “promising Soviet writers” Vasily Aksenova.

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A significant part of Teddy Row's notes is devoted to the Soviet service. Despite the fact that, as is commonly believed, foreigners, unlike their own citizens, were served at the highest level in the USSR, the service terrified the American.

Teddy's first impression of the service industry was the elevator operator at the Moscow National Hotel. He never wanted to send the elevator up until it was filled to capacity with passengers. We had to wait quite a long time. Such a routine in one of the best hotels in the country seemed savage to the American guest. But this was small compared to the condition of hotel rooms in other cities.

“When I checked into [the room], there was no toilet paper or soap in the bathroom. And it was like this throughout my stay,” Rowe writes about his hotel in Chisinau. – The door handle to my room was replaced by an ordinary nail inserted into the hole at an angle. One of the double doors leading out to the balcony only had a makeshift latch and it was not secure.”

The diary author admits: in Latin America, he had to spend the night in places and worse. But there it cost a penny, and in the USSR they took good money for dubious comfort.

Chisinau is also associated with Rowe's recollections of the Soviet lines:

“The children's clothing counter was a madhouse. Things for babies were sold on a raised platform just three steps above the main floor. Most of the women stood obediently in the huge line that led up and around the stairs leading to the second floor. But, as always, others were breaking through from below, trying to stay on the three steps. The result was a lot of noise, very loud, very hot and very hectic. One woman walking below had a three-year-old child on her shoulders. The child was in tears, frightened by the noise, but I am sure that the mother did not hear the crying because of the noise of the crowd.”

“I need a foreign tape recorder - American or German”, film “Beware of the Car”, 1967

The lines made a lasting impression on Teddy. In his diaries, he writes about how the appearance of any item on sale could provoke a crowd: first, two people who liked it would rush to the product, then the rest of the store’s visitors, who felt the excitement. Rowe remembers once creating a crowd of his own just by lounging at the counter. “It’s annoying when people look over your shoulder when you’re making a private purchase, but after looking at their situation, I sympathize with them,” the American concluded.

Row's indignation caused a disregard and even boorish attitude on the part of the staff - not only in hotels, but also in restaurants, trains, shops (including those where people from the street could not get into). Against this background, a polite saleswoman from Minsk, who allowed him to calmly choose amber jewelry for his wife and even compare different models, led the tourist to a real delight.

“I was extremely grateful to her, not just for the service that any American client takes for granted, but for restoring my faith in the human kindness of the Soviet citizen,” Teddy writes about this episode. – Lack of mail, indifference of waiters and other hotel staff, the incident with the suitcase, constant refusals in response to requests to see the most innocent things, the feeling that you exist only for their benefit, and not vice versa, as is done with the tourist trade in all other countries , - all this was outweighed to some extent by the kind attention of this little girl. God bless her!”

The face of the Soviet man

“One of the things that strikes a Westerner is the enormous size of many Soviet citizens, especially women. This was especially obvious to me in Moscow because of the novelty. But I'm still not used to it. The post-war diet of potatoes and flour products left its mark.”

Teddy Rowe's observations about what Soviet people look like concern not only their appearance, but also their behavior. The American notes the habit of local residents (especially men) to change clothes right on the beach; about the fact that most Soviet women do not shave their legs (“Perhaps blondes could get away with it, but brunettes—some of them are as hairy as I am”).

Rowe, by his own admission, failed to penetrate into the essence of relations between men and women in the USSR.

“I tried to look at this relationship, but without much success. In cities in the north [of the USSR], I saw young couples, sometimes walking hand in hand, sitting on a park bench. But besides this, I rarely saw manifestations of love in public.”

Photo: Shutterstock

The American failed to see these manifestations even in Yalta, despite the fact that the situation, it would seem, should have been more relaxed.

“Beautiful spring nights, many secluded forest paths, anonymity as “just another tourist” - all this will certainly contribute to a more spontaneous reaction. But it turned out that this was not the case. Young couples who are clearly not married seem to act like good friends. There are more young women here than men, and they mostly travel together. You see them walking along the embankment in the evenings, hand in hand. <…> I looked closely to see how often they would flirt with young free men - and I never saw it.”

Another point that Rowe writes about is the number of drunk people. “Alfred in Kyiv asked me: Are there as many drunks in the United States as there are here in the Soviet Union? I told him that alcoholism is a serious problem for us, but I saw many more drunks on the main streets and in public places in the Soviet Union."

Still from the film “Beware of the Car”, 1967

During his tour, Teddy witnessed a variety of events in Soviet life - from the Easter service in the Tallinn Cathedral (it was most likely led by Metropolitan Alexy of Tallinn and Estonia, future Patriarch Alexy II) to the filming of “New Adventures of the Elusive” on the embankment in Yalta.

He writes about the institution of registration, which does not allow residents of the USSR to freely go to live in Moscow and other cities, about manifestations of the cult of personality and state propaganda (“A record costs from 1 ruble 25 kopecks to 4 rubles, but a recording of Lenin’s voice costs only 17 kopecks. So happens when the state wants people to have certain things"), about the celebration of Victory Day and the corresponding article in the Pravda newspaper:

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“The editorial was published under a small headline: “Happy holiday, dear friends, Happy Victory Day!” An appeal to the armed forces by Marshal Grechko, an appeal to the Czechoslovak communists (23rd anniversary of their liberation) and a long article accusing the US of its “imperialism” and “aggression”. This is, of course, not enough for Pravda. The editorial is small, and there is not a single photograph of a soldier. This can be explained by the fact that the country is simply tired of celebrating.”

Teddy Rowe also learned about the murder in June 1968 of Senator Robert Kennedy from Soviet news.

“The Moscow [TV] announcer was the first to tell me the news about the attempted assassination of Senator Robert Kennedy,” he wrote. How can I describe my feelings as an American, sitting among Russians, receiving news of this nature, especially after two very difficult months spent trying to explain to Soviet citizens that violence is not the norm in American life? My heart is burning with shame!”

Return

On July 1968, XNUMX, Teddy Rowe arrived at the final destination of Soviet travel - Nakhodka. Next - by ferry to Japan and by plane to the USA. The tourist was a little worried that photos and a diary at check-out may be removed, but they remained untouched.

Rowe's trip coincided with the Prague Spring - the liberalization of the socialist regime in Czechoslovakia. After everything he saw and heard, he was absolutely sure: the Soviet Union would invade the neighboring “brotherly” country.

Teddy shared his thoughts with Mansfield. Many sympathizers of the Prague Spring believed: if Czechoslovakia was actively supported by NATO, the Soviet Union would not dare to invade. It seemed to Teddy that his boss’s weighty word could somehow influence the US’s position on this issue. However, the senator did not listen to his assistant. Moreover, shortly before their conversation, Mansfield confidently stated at a press conference that there would be no Soviet invasion. One and a half months remained before the Prague Spring put an end to the entry of troops of the Warsaw Pact countries into Czechoslovakia.

A few years later, Teddy completed a partnership with Mansfield. Further in his life there were postgraduate studies at Johns Hopkins University, a dissertation on the politics of Fidel Castro, work with another Democratic senator, Lee Metcalf, a civil service in various structures, and finally a post in FIFA before the World Cup in 1994 in the USA.

In the USSR, Rowe left his address to many new friends - he invited me to visit and offered to correspond. A few years later he really received a letter from a guide from Novosibirsk, Svetlana - she was going to America with her husband, a scientist, and asked to make an invitation. Arriving in the United States, the woman met with Teddy, they became friends for many years.

Teddy Row himself once again visited the USSR in a different era - in 1986 as a member of the delegation of the House of Representatives of Congress.

This story can be completed with the words spoken by Teddy Rowe after reading the diary today: “Looking back, I can now see many signals suggesting the collapse of the once powerful Soviet empire. Although I was only a novice explorer of this vast land, even then I saw that the authorities could not resist change forever. I had just returned home when Soviet troops invaded Czechoslovakia. The collapse began, and it took only two decades.”

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